e. Open the bleeder valve. Watch and listen as the fluid flows through the tube. When you no longer hear a
sputtering sound, or see air bubbles, or the flow stops, tighten the valve and tell the assistant to release the brake
f. If the fluid stopped flowing before all the bubbles were out, have the assistant pump up the pressure and bleed
the line again until you see a steady flow of fluid.
g. Move to the next longest line and bleed that wheel cylinder. Work your way down to the shortest line, usually
the left front wheel.
h. When you're finished, get rid of the old fluid according to your SOP.
SECTION V. TESTING THE BRAKES
1. Test brakes in the motor pool, not on the road. If anything feels wrong or looks out-of-place, take time to investigate
using the brake troubleshooting section in the vehicle's -20 technical manual.
2. If you have to take anything apart, make sure it goes back right and always bleed the entire brake system. The
schematic you need to trace the lines and pinpoint the connections are also in the -20 technical manuals.
Any time air gets into the system, bleeding is the only way to get rid of it.
SECTION VI. DRAGGING BRAKE SHOES/PADS
1. After testing the brakes in the motor pool, drive the truck out on the road. Hold the steering wheel loosely in your
hands and apply the brakes. Feel the steering wheel to see if the truck pulls to one side. If it does, the brake shoes/pads
are probably dragging on one of the brake drums/rotors.
2. Adjust the brakes and try the road test again. If the truck still pulls one way or the other when you apply the brakes, it
could be either a rusted or sticking wheel cylinder/caliper, or glazed or oily brake shoes/pads.
3. Brake shoes/pads are cheap and trucks are expensive and you can't put a price on a life. When in doubt, replace the